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Surroundings and routes · 5 September 2026

A day trip to Portugal from the house: Marvão, Castelo de Vide, Portalegre and Elvas

From De Paja y Barro, Portugal is not a journey. It is just crossing La Raya. The border sits a step away, and on the other side opens the Alto Alentejo: walled hilltop villages, medieval Jewish quarters, Roman ruins, World Heritage fortresses and a river pool to swim in come summer.

There is a plan for a morning and a plan for several days. These are our favourites, all a short hop from the house.

Marvão, the balcony of the Alentejo

Marvão crowns a crag in the Serra de São Mamede. You see it from far off, white and wrapped in its walls. Step through the gate and lose yourself in the whitewashed lanes up to the castle, with its cistern and views that on a clear day reach across Extremadura. It is worth going into the Igreja de Santa María, now the village museum, and pausing at the pelourinho. Come in November and you will catch the Feira da Castanha, the chestnut fair. It is one of the most beautiful villages in Portugal and one of the closest to the house: about half an hour by car.

Portagem and its river pool

At the foot of Marvão, beside the river Sever, lies Portagem. Here you cross the old stone ponte and reach the praia fluvial, a natural river pool with sand, lawns and the shade of tall trees, with a café right beside it. It is the best spot for a swim near the house: calm, shallow water for the children and no crowds. A dip less than an hour away, with no early start and no motorway.

Castelo de Vide, the Sintra of the Alentejo

A few kilometres on, Castelo de Vide surprises with its greenery. Its jewel is the judiaria, one of the best preserved Jewish quarters in the country, with the medieval synagogue at the top and streets of houses with Gothic doorways. Walk down to the Fonte da Vila, the Renaissance fountain at its heart, and climb up to the castle through the old town. This is a land of water: its springs gave the town its spa fame. And if you want another swim, the Póvoa e Meadas reservoir nearby has its own river beach.

Portalegre: cork, tapestries and palaces

Portalegre, capital of the Alto Alentejo, is a city of noble houses built on the money of cork and silk. Do not miss the Sé, its cathedral, and above all the Tapestry Manufacture, where works woven by hand have travelled to museums the world over. Book lovers have the José Régio Museum, the poet's own house. It is also the gateway to the Serra de São Mamede Natural Park.

Elvas, a World Heritage fortress

Further south waits Elvas, one of the most striking border cities in Portugal. Its belt of star-shaped bastioned fortifications is the largest dry-moat bulwark system in the world, and earned it World Heritage status. Take it in from the Forte de Santa Luzia and the Forte da Graça, and do not leave without seeing the Amoreira Aqueduct, kilometres of arches striding over the plain. For a souvenir, a box of ameixas de Elvas, the candied plums that are the pride of the town.

More plans in the Alto Alentejo

• Ammaia. Beside Marvão rises a Roman city. Baths, forum and a small museum out in open country, almost to yourself.
• Nisa. A land of clay and cheese. This is the home of embroidered pottery and a cheese with protected origin worth a tasty stop.
• Alter do Chão. Its stud farm has bred the Alter Real horse, of Lusitano blood, since 1748. Watching them in the ring, next to the village castle, delights children.
• Crato and Flor da Rosa. The fortified monastery of Flor da Rosa, of the Hospitaller knights, now a pousada. Stone, silence and fine Alentejo cooking.
• Serra de São Mamede. The natural park that wraps around all of this. Walking trails, vultures overhead and dark skies for stargazing.

And the sea?

If the Atlantic calls, the best known stretch of coast on this side is Nazaré, famous for its giant waves and its old fishing port. It can be done there and back in a day, but with time to spare: set off early and take it slow on the way home.

Good to know

Everything lies west, across the border. La Raya is crossed with no fuss: bring your ID and remember that Portugal runs one hour behind Spain.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to reach Portugal from the house?
The first Portuguese village, Marvão, is about half an hour by car.

Where can I swim nearby?
At the Portagem river pool, at the foot of Marvão, less than an hour from the house.

Do I need a passport or border control?
No. It is the Schengen area, crossed without any checkpoint. Your ID card is enough.

Can it be done as a day trip?
Yes. Marvão, Portagem, Castelo de Vide, Portalegre and Elvas are perfect for a there-and-back day. Nazaré works too, but leave early and take your time coming home.

The house, the perfect base between Spain and Portugal

The best part of all this is where you set off from. Our rural house in Valencia de Alcántara sits right on La Raya, with Extremadura on one side and the Alentejo on the other. In the morning you have breakfast looking out over the dehesa, cross to Marvão for bacalhau at lunch and are back for a swim in the pool by evening. Spain and Portugal, without changing beds. Few places let you have both countries within reach and always return to the same quiet.